In an unexpected yet strategic alliance, two of the world’s most renowned wine-producing countries, France and Italy, are coming together to elevate a category often seen as light and fleeting—rosé wines.
This new partnership focuses on promoting “rosés de terroir,” a type of rosé wine that emphasizes the unique characteristics of its region and is made to age, much like prestigious reds and whites, rather than being consumed immediately, as is typical for most rosé wines.
Rosé, which has traditionally been regarded as a casual, easy-drinking wine, is now entering a phase of sophistication, with French and Italian producers aiming to raise its profile and appeal to collectors.
The effort to produce rosé wines that can mature over time is led by the French association Rosés de Terroir, which seeks to create a niche market for collectible, terroir-driven rosés.
Philippe Guigal, president of Rosés de Terroir and owner of Château d’Aquéria in Tavel, France, has been at the forefront of the initiative.
In Milan last month, Guigal launched an appeal to Italian winegrowers: “Rosés de terroirs, unissons-nous!” (Rosés de terroirs, let’s join forces!).
The goal is to unite top producers from both countries under one banner and create the world’s first collection of collectible rosé wines.
The partnership is a significant step, considering the historical rivalry between France and Italy in the global wine market. Yet, negotiations are well underway.
The French association already includes 59 wineries from France, Italy, Greece, and Spain. The collective vision is to produce wines that not only reflect their terroir but also challenge the common notion that rosé is best enjoyed young.
Instead, they envision wines that could age gracefully for up to a decade or more, comparable to the world’s finest white and red wines.
During a recent event at the Grand Hotel et de Milan, 22 wines from both France and Italy were showcased.
The Italian presence was marked by three standout wineries from Bardolino, including Villa Calicantus, Guerrieri Rizzardi, and Le Fraghe, which have been members of the Rosés de Terroir association since 2021.
The wines were paired with dishes curated by chef Francesco Potenza and sommelier Alfredo Moccia, further elevating the rosé experience.
Villa Calicantus, known for its high-quality rosés made from indigenous grapes, has recently earned praise for its commitment to terroir-driven production.
Despite a setback in 2020, when the Bardolino Chiaretto DOC rejected the winery’s Chiar’Otto rosé for falling outside of the DOC’s parameters, the wine’s inclusion in the Rosés de Terroir group has been a point of pride for owner and winemaker Daniele Delaini.
His philosophy is simple yet profound: “Each vineyard has its own wine, and each wine its own vineyard,” he explains, emphasizing a natural approach to winemaking that respects the grape’s characteristics and allows the region’s soil to shine through.
Guigal’s vision for a dedicated collection of rosé wines that can stand the test of time is gaining momentum.
“The rosé market has grown significantly over the past two decades, and now it’s time for greater diversification,” he noted.
“Rosé wines should not be relegated to the ‘everyday’ category but should be recognized for their potential to be cellared and appreciated as fine wines.”
This ambitious collaboration between French and Italian winemakers signals a new era for rosé wines, one where terroir, tradition, and aging potential are at the forefront of the conversation.
If successful, this initiative could transform the rosé wine market, positioning it as a respected category alongside the world’s finest wines.
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