Paris, France: Concerns over the future of iconic cheeses like Camembert, Brie, and blue-veined varieties have been stirring in recent months, following a new study that highlighted a loss of genetic diversity in essential cheesemaking moulds.
However, researchers like Jeanne Ropars, co-author of the study, assure cheese enthusiasts there is no immediate risk to production. “There is no production problem, in the short term, for cheeses,” she stated, emphasizing that the recent concern may have been somewhat exaggerated.
Still, this buzz has drawn attention to real challenges facing the cheesemaking industry, where climate change and evolving EU regulations are creating new obstacles.
While Camembert’s distinctive rind remains safe for now, the reliance on a single strain of Penicillium camemberti mould for its production raises questions about the future.
This albino mutant strain, isolated in 1897, has become the industry standard, meeting consumer preference for clean, white rinds, but lacking genetic diversity that could make it vulnerable to environmental changes.
This issue reflects a broader trend in cheesemaking, where uniformity in appearance has come at the expense of resilience. Other strains of Penicillium could be reintroduced to diversify rinds, but some producers fear that this would alter the cheese’s traditional appearance and appeal.
Beyond mould diversity, climate change is also transforming the landscape of European cheesemaking. In regions like Normandy, unusually high rainfall is fostering unsought moulds on cheese, while in central France, dry summers are reducing milk quality, which impacts cheese texture and flavor.
According to a report from Profession Fromager, hot weather diminishes milk’s mineral content, complicating the production of high-quality cheeses.
Furthermore, in Switzerland, warming temperatures are altering the flora that feeds grazing cows, which affects the flavor profiles of artisanal cheeses like the high-altitude Étivaz.
Some cherished French varieties may also be at risk due to these climatic shifts. Cheeses like Salers and Grand Aubrac, which rely on traditional summer grazing in mountain pastures, were impacted last summer when farmers had to supplement feed with hay, halting production temporarily.
Producers are now considering modifying their production guidelines, or Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) standards, to better cope with environmental changes.
Adding to these challenges are stricter EU regulations. New guidelines aiming to reduce Shigatoxigenic E. coli have created additional hurdles for raw milk cheese producers, especially those who rely on traditional aging methods in natural cellars.
Last year, a proposed EU law threatened to replace wooden cheese packaging—integral to the flavor of varieties like Mont d’Or—with more recyclable materials.
Though this legislation was ultimately blocked, other norms could limit the use of natural aging caves, seen by EU authorities as difficult to regulate.
Caroline Borrel, a producer of Saint-Nectaire, an Auvergne cheese traditionally aged in volcanic cellars, expressed frustration over the tightening rules.
“They’re doing whatever they can to incite us to reduce the use of natural cellars,” she said, warning that this could fundamentally change the product.
As environmental and regulatory pressures build, Europe’s cheesemakers are caught between tradition and adaptation, striving to preserve centuries-old techniques and flavors that make their cheeses unique.
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