As the grape harvest season unfolds in the Champagne region of France, the industry is taking significant steps to better protect its seasonal workers from abuse, aiming to restore the reputation of its esteemed sparkling wines.
Maxime Toubart, head of the Champagne growers’ association, emphasized the call for the entire sector to mobilize in support of workers’ rights.
Since the beginning of the harvest in early September, members of the CGT trade union have actively distributed flyers to grape-pickers, a significant number of whom are Eastern Europeans.
The leaflets, available in eight languages—including Polish, Russian, Ukrainian, Italian, and French—inform laborers of their rights, such as the minimum hourly wage, limits on working hours, and mandatory breaks.
“Hello, we have come to inform you of your rights,” CGT representatives announced to a group of workers picking Pinot Noir grapes in the small village of Igny-Comblizy.
This outreach is a response to past allegations of labor violations, which have marred the industry’s reputation.
To ensure compliance and safety, the Marne prefecture has deployed 22 labor inspectors and 84 police officers to monitor this year’s harvest daily.
Their presence aims to safeguard workers and deter any potential abuses. Concurrently, representatives from renowned Champagne houses, such as Veuve Clicquot, are closely monitoring their subcontractors, responsible for hiring temporary labor.
The seasonal workforce, which typically consists of around 120,000 workers who handpick grapes across 34,000 hectares (84,000 acres) of vineyards, faced significant scrutiny following last year’s reports of appalling living conditions and other labor violations.
Three temporary housing facilities were shut down due to being deemed “dirty” and “unfit for habitation.” Additionally, an investigation was launched into the tragic deaths of four grape harvesters, believed to have succumbed to sunstroke in extreme heat.
David Chatillon, co-head of the industry group Union of Champagne Houses, expressed frustration over the situation, attributing the violations to “rogue actors” among subcontractors.
“Rogue actors have threatened the image of Champagne,” he asserted, emphasizing the industry’s commitment to rectify past mistakes. Last October, the group initiated an action plan aimed at enhancing working conditions across the sector.
In November 2023, French prosecutors opened two probes into suspected human trafficking after around 200 foreign workers, primarily Ukrainians, were discovered living in substandard conditions during routine checks.
One contractor is set to face court proceedings in March 2025, while the second investigation remains ongoing. Jose Blanco, general secretary of the CGT-Champagne trade union, highlighted that despite some improvements, inadequate housing remains a critical issue.
“We are still finding camps in the woods,” he lamented, urging Champagne houses to take greater responsibility for their subcontractors.
Maxime Mainguet, vice-president of a newly formed federation of subcontractors in Champagne, noted that the industry has taken the concerns seriously following last year’s revelations.
“I think it was a real wake-up call,” he stated, underscoring that growers are now more cautious when entering contracts.
In response to labor shortages and to attract more grape-pickers, prestigious houses like Moet & Chandon are offering better accommodations and working conditions.
The winery houses 1,900 of its 3,500 seasonal workers in a modern residence complete with dormitories, bathrooms, a laundry room, and a canteen, along with providing physical therapy sessions and stretching classes.
Despite criticisms from the CGT regarding the heavy reliance on migrant labor, Toubart defended the industry’s practices, asserting that both French nationals and foreigners receive equal pay.
He stressed that the Champagne brand’s reputation hinges on fair treatment and good working conditions, stating, “The Champagne name has no interest whatsoever in poor welcome and poor pay.”
