As France’s renowned Champagne region enters its busiest time of the year, an undercurrent of exploitation and poor working conditions has cast a shadow over the prestigious vineyards.
The September-October harvest sees around 120,000 seasonal workers—many of them migrants—sweeping across the 34,000 hectares dedicated to the production of sparkling wine.
While the world enjoys the fruits of their labor, a less glamorous reality unfolds behind the scenes for those who make the harvest possible.
This year, industry leaders and unions alike are mobilizing to address the dire conditions migrant workers face, particularly in light of 2023’s tragic harvest, which was marked by the deaths of four laborers from sunstroke and the subsequent exposure of appalling living conditions.
Though improvements are promised, unions and NGOs argue that more needs to be done to protect the vulnerable seasonal workforce.
A History of Exploitation
The issues surrounding labor exploitation in Champagne are not new. Over the years, workers—primarily migrants from Eastern Europe—have often been subjected to poor pay, inadequate housing, and grueling work schedules.
In 2023, the situation reached a breaking point when the deaths of four workers due to heat exhaustion led to widespread condemnation of the industry’s treatment of its laborers. The year was dubbed “the harvest of shame” by unions, a name that has since stuck.
Maxime Toubart, head of the Champagne winegrowers’ association SGV, responded to the crisis by announcing that the “entire sector is mobilized” to address these issues. Yet, despite such promises, conditions remain challenging for the thousands who journey to the Champagne region each year, hoping to earn a living.
In November 2023, French prosecutors opened two investigations into suspected human trafficking, following the discovery of 200 Ukrainian and other foreign workers living in squalid conditions during routine checks.
The findings highlighted the extent to which unscrupulous subcontractors exploit seasonal laborers, many of whom lack the means to defend their rights.
One contractor will face trial in March 2025 as a result of the first investigation, while the second probe remains ongoing. However, the wheels of justice turn slowly, and for those working the 2024 harvest, improvements have been slow to materialize.
Temporary Housing Crisis
Since the 2023 harvest, authorities have shut down three temporary housing facilities deemed “dirty” and “unfit for habitation.” These closures have left many migrant workers scrambling to find alternative accommodations, with some ending up in makeshift camps in the woods.
In response to the crisis, the local Marne prefecture has deployed 22 labor inspectors and 84 police officers to oversee the harvest this year.
Their role is to ensure that labor laws are respected and that workers are not subjected to exploitative practices. However, unions argue that more comprehensive action is needed to address the root causes of the problem.
One of the primary issues is the proliferation of subcontractors who recruit seasonal workers on behalf of the champagne houses. These intermediaries often prioritize profit over worker welfare, leaving laborers in substandard conditions.
As Mélanie Matoux of the FO union at the Burtin champagne house explained, these subcontractors “pop up like mushrooms solely for the harvest, and take advantage of the misery of seasonal workers to exploit them.”
While larger champagne houses like Moët & Chandon provide adequate housing and fair wages for their workers—offering modern lodgings to 1,900 of their 3,500 seasonal employees—many smaller producers fail to meet these standards.
Moët & Chandon workers earn between €1,200 and €2,000 for a 10-day stint, but this is far from the norm in the wider industry.
Labor Rights and Advocacy
In an effort to combat these issues, local NGOs and unions have stepped up their efforts to protect workers. The Epernay Prevention Club, a local outreach group, works in partnership with the national employment agency France Travail to provide assistance to seasonal workers as soon as they arrive in the region.
Stationed at Epernay train station, NGO staff members greet new arrivals, offering them guidance on how to find legitimate work and avoid predatory employers.
“As soon as people get off the train from Paris, or the north, we meet them and tell them where to go to get recruited,” explained Corinne Vallard, the director of the Epernay Prevention Club, in an interview with France 3 television.
“This means they avoid having to hang around in the park all day, where they risk being exploited by unscrupulous would-be employers.”
Despite the organization’s best efforts, social workers like Sophie Degrave have found that many migrant workers are initially reluctant to engage with them.
“They have trouble telling us who they are, where they’re from, what they are trying to do, and whether or not they have work papers,” Degrave said.
However, over time, some workers begin to understand that these outreach groups are there to help, not report them to the authorities.
France Travail also plays a crucial role by setting up contracts for those who have come to the region seeking work. According to Christelle Marquez, the director of the local branch, their mission is to ensure that seasonal laborers have access to fair employment.
Meanwhile, the local CGT trade union has taken to the vineyards, distributing leaflets that inform workers of their rights.
The flyers, which come in eight languages—including Polish, Ukrainian, and Russian—outline basic labor rights such as the minimum hourly wage, working hour limits, and mandatory breaks. They also provide emergency contact information for workers in need of assistance.
“If they have problems, there are emergency numbers and we will support them,” said CGT representative Sandrine Calvi. “French and foreign employees must have the same rights.”
The Fight for Fair Wages
For many migrant workers, exploitation begins with unfair pay. According to José Blanco, secretary-general of the Champagne CGT, some workers have been offered as little as €30 per day, far below the legal standard of around €80.
Harvesters are legally entitled to France’s gross hourly minimum wage for days capped at 10 hours, as well as one day of rest per week.
Contracts typically run for one month, though they are renewed if necessary. However, the reality is often far different from what is promised on paper. Many workers are forced to endure long hours in extreme conditions for wages that barely cover their living expenses.
Deputy secretary-general of the CGT, Philippe Cothenet, stated that the union would continue to send representatives to inspect working conditions in the vineyards.
“Hundreds and hundreds of service companies come to Champagne during the harvest period, and some are unscrupulous about labor laws, so we are always careful,” Cothenet told France Bleu.
Looking Ahead
As the 2024 harvest progresses, the hope is that increased oversight and advocacy will help curb the worst abuses faced by migrant workers in the Champagne region.
Yet, the broader structural issues that allow exploitation to flourish remain entrenched, with many laborers caught in a cycle of poverty and dependence on seasonal work.
Despite efforts by industry leaders like Maxime Toubart to “mobilize the sector” and improve conditions, unions and NGOs argue that without sustained commitment and enforcement, the exploitation of seasonal workers will persist.
The Champagne region, known worldwide for its luxury product, now faces a reckoning. As long as the workers who harvest the grapes continue to live and labor in squalor, the industry’s reputation may increasingly come to be associated with the exploitation hidden beneath the sparkling surface.
For the thousands of seasonal laborers who make the journey to Champagne each year, the 2024 harvest may still feel like anything but a cause for celebration.
