A major rift has emerged in France’s culinary landscape, as hundreds of prominent chefs raise their voices in protest against the reauthorisation of a controversial pesticide.
The so-called “Duplomb Law”, passed earlier this month, reintroduces the use of acetamiprid, a pesticide previously banned in France due to its environmental impact.
The law, named after Senator Laurent Duplomb—who authored the legislation—has triggered outrage across the food industry.
On Monday, a petition demanding its repeal surpassed two million signatures, marking one of the strongest public reactions to an agricultural policy in recent years.
At the forefront of the movement is Jacques Marcon, a three-star Michelin chef based in Haute-Loire.
Typically known for his quiet presence in political matters, Marcon broke his silence with a scathing Instagram post targeting Duplomb, who represents the same region.
“‘Proud to be Altiligerian’ is our department’s motto, but today I’m ashamed to live in Haute-Loire, the department you represent!” Marcon wrote, accusing the senator of acting as a “spokesperson for the agro-industry” and neglecting future generations.
The post, accompanied by a photograph of a wild herb field near his restaurant, was widely shared and became a rallying cry for chefs across the country.
Culinary Industry Breaks Its Silence
The chef’s criticism marked a turning point, galvanising a sector that traditionally avoids political controversy. Within days, nearly 400 chefs and food professionals had signed a joint letter published in Le Monde, calling the law “an insult to scientists, to farmers who work without pesticides every day, to public health and to our profession.”
Signatories include culinary heavyweights such as Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur, Glenn Viel of L’Oustau de Baumanière, and Olivier Roellinger, former holder of three Michelin stars.
Chef Viel, speaking to AFP, said the pesticide—acetamiprid, a member of the neonicotinoid family—has no place in modern French agriculture.
“I don’t understand this law,” he said. “We’re capable of spending billions to defend our country and rightly so. But can’t we find a billion or two to help farmers make this ecological transition?”
Colagreco, who has previously spoken about sustainability and biodiversity, went further. In an interview with Nice Matin, he called the law “catastrophic,” and said it reflects “outright contempt for health and environmental standards.”
He urged policymakers to reverse course and focus on agricultural models “that respect nature and our health.”
Health and Inequality Concerns
The concerns raised go beyond the chefs’ kitchens. Critics argue the law will exacerbate health disparities by making it harder for average citizens to access clean, chemical-free produce.
Michelin-starred chef Thibaut Spiwack of ANONA told RTL that the law supports “a purely commercial logic” and that French citizens will be left with “vegetables loaded with chemical, toxic products and very low nutritional value.”
He added, “We are widening the gap between people who can afford to eat healthy and those who cannot. This is not the kind of food model we should aspire to.”
Chef Marie-Victorine Manoa, a known food columnist, was blunt in her reaction: “This law is a hammer blow. We need a general rebellion.”
Politicians and Agroindustry in the Spotlight
Much of the criticism is directed at Senator Duplomb himself, whose ties to the agricultural sector are no secret.
His legislation enables a derogation from France’s 2018 ban on acetamiprid, arguing it is necessary for French farmers to compete with their European counterparts, where the pesticide is still legal.
Proponents of the law, including several major farming lobbies, argue that the use of acetamiprid is essential for protecting certain crops against pests, particularly amid changing climate conditions.
However, environmentalists and scientists counter that the pesticide—linked to bee die-offs and soil degradation—poses significant long-term risks. Neonicotinoids like acetamiprid are known to persist in the environment and affect pollinators, biodiversity, and even human health through accumulation in the food chain.
Despite its legality at the EU level, France had previously led the way in banning such chemicals, citing their potential for widespread ecological damage.
Chefs as Environmental Advocates
The current movement represents a sea change in how chefs engage with environmental policy. Traditionally seen as artisans focused on taste and presentation, these culinary professionals are increasingly embracing a broader role as stewards of sustainability and public health.
“What is the point of serving exquisite dishes if the ingredients themselves are poisoned?” one signatory asked rhetorically in the Le Monde letter.
For chefs like Marcon, the issue is deeply personal. His restaurant, Régis et Jacques Marcon, is known for its commitment to seasonal, locally sourced ingredients—a philosophy that is now under threat, he says, from the very policymakers tasked with protecting the land.
“The value of our terroirs is being destroyed by policies that favour immediate profits over long-term well-being,” Marcon wrote.
Chef Éric Guérin of La Mare aux Oiseaux echoed this sentiment. “Our landscapes, our waters, our entire ecosystem are being affected. Thank you for speaking up, Jacques. We’re with you.”
What Happens Next?
While the law remains in force, the mounting backlash suggests it may not stand unchallenged for long. With public sentiment shifting and culinary professionals mobilising in unprecedented numbers, lawmakers may be forced to reconsider.
Environmental groups, consumer advocates, and opposition parties have already pledged to file appeals and push for alternatives in Parliament.
The momentum behind the chefs’ protest shows no signs of slowing. As of Tuesday morning, the online petition continued to climb, surpassing 2.2 million signatures.
For many in France, the message is clear: food is not just about nourishment, it’s about values. And right now, those values are under threat.
“We restaurateurs are in this business to feed, not to poison,” reads the opening line of the chefs’ statement—now a rallying cry for an entire profession fighting for the future of food.