A quiet corner of rural France has become the scene of another high-profile theft, this time targeting an unlikely victim — a snail farm supplying some of the country’s finest restaurants.
L’Escargot des Grands, located near Reims, reported the loss of an estimated €90,000 (Rs 93 lakh) worth of fresh and frozen snails in a robbery that shocked both the producer and the local farming community.
The theft, discovered Monday morning, occurred sometime between Sunday night and dawn. Thieves stole approximately 450 kilograms of snail meat, much of which had been prepared for Christmas deliveries to Michelin-star establishments.
Producer Jean-Mathieu Dauvergne, who runs the operation, said he was “shocked” and devastated by the scale and precision of the heist. According to Dauvergne, the perpetrators cut through the perimeter fencing before forcing their way inside.
“They broke down the door with a crowbar and smashed the light detectors,” he explained. “Then they helped themselves to things in my cold storage rooms.” The theft included both fresh and frozen snails, many already packaged for shipment.
Dauvergne emphasised that the quantity stolen indicates the involvement of multiple individuals. “It’s very surprising because they stole raw materials — 450 kg of snail meat,” he said. “It must be the work of a very organised network. It’s incredible to have stolen such a quantity.”
The missing snails, enough to prepare roughly 10,000 plates of escargots, were destined for prestigious restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Domaine les Crayères in Reims. The delicacy forms part of their signature puff-pastry dish, popular during the holiday season and heavily reliant on timely deliveries.
The timing of the theft could not have been worse. December marks one of the busiest and most profitable periods for French snail producers, who often rely on Christmas orders to sustain their annual revenue.
The heist has now placed significant pressure on Dauvergne’s business, leading him to describe the event as a “very tough blow” in a Facebook post addressed to customers and supporters. Industry experts say the robbery reflects a growing trend of targeted thefts within the French food sector.
In recent years, high-value goods such as cheese, truffles, saffron and wine have increasingly become targets for criminal groups aware of their profitability on the black market. Snails—highly valued in gourmet cuisine—appear to be the latest addition to this list.
France consumes around 14,300 tonnes of snails per year, according to the Chambers of Agriculture. However, 95 per cent of those snails are imported, making French-raised varieties particularly prized among top chefs. With domestic production relatively limited, snail farms operate in a niche market where losses on this scale can be crippling.
Local authorities have launched an investigation, but recovering the stolen goods will be difficult. Perishable products like snail meat can quickly be sold or distributed through informal channels, especially with an expected surge in holiday dining demands.
For now, Dauvergne is working to salvage what remains of his Christmas schedule, though fulfilling all original commitments may be impossible. Michelin-star restaurants, meanwhile, may have to adjust their menus or seek alternative suppliers during one of the busiest culinary periods of the year.
As investigations continue, the heist stands as a striking example of the vulnerabilities faced by specialised food producers in rural France — and the growing sophistication of criminal groups targeting the country’s gourmet supply chain.